col tocco d’arrosto

May Day leftovers

I’ve written about pasta col tocco d’arrosto before. ‘With a touch of the roast’: pasta cooked and thrown in to the roasting pan with a little of its water, swirled around on the gas with some parmesan, until the ‘sauce’ is somewhat but not entirely reduced and sticking to the pasta, and the roasting pan is almost entirely clean.

Here, with the roasting pan juices including lamb fat, sweet roasted spring garlic, honey, dijon mustard, lemon juice and basil leaves, this is about the quickest, simplest shortcuts to heaven you can imagine. cold roast lamb cutlets on the side. pure umami, and the remnants of the beaujolais gamay to wash it down. plus the process cleans your roasting pan out perfectly.

You will never get this in a restaurant, and it’s immediately uncontrovertibly delicious, in a basic ‘salt and fat’ way, as well as being sublime.

Visitors to Seville can get something similarly exceptional in the form of the montaditos de pringá, where your barman will scoop and scrape up the roasting pan for bits of meat and caramelised fat, with some sweet peppers or no, and stuff them into a crusty roll, for eating with your wine or beer at the bar. The last time I looked this had spread rapidly round Andalucia station bars and had reached Madrid ofc. But its locus classicus is Sevilla, and the Bodeguita Romero where it is impossible to eat badly.

Author: diasyrmus

A melancholy emblem of parish cruelty.

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